2014, Day 349 - You've got a fast car

Not really though, this old double-decker bus isn't going anywhere any time soon but it is all cool and beat up.  Makes me think of the double-decker busses in Davis that still run regularly even though spare parts are largely unavailable and have to be made by a talented local mechanic.

Fuji X-E2, Fujinon 35/f1.4R
35mm, f1.4, 1/280 sec @ 200 ISO

2014, Day 327 - Odd man out

Today is our last full day in Thailand, we leave early tomorrow morning so it is truly the end of our vacation.  All that is a long way of saying we're starting to get tired so we had a slow morning with a relaxed breakfast after which we decided to tackle some of the packing early.  These things take planning and with all the things that people asked us to get for them we've had to purchase a second shared bag.

But out excitement of the day came when we left at nine o'clock for Chatuchak Market.  Yes we were there on Saturday but today we are just going to meet up with a gentleman I knew by reputation but have now had a chance to meet in person, Mr. Preecha.  He is a retired English teacher who has spent the last few years really focusing on his first love, betta, also known as Siamese fighting fish.  Mr. Preecha is a respected authority and travels all over Asia to judge fish in massive competitions and we were invited to visit his breeding facilities.

From Chatuchak it took another hour to reach his place which is out in the country nestled between to rice paddies.  Under netting and shade cloth is his operation.  Along one side are some thirty two hundred old whisky bottles with a horizontal cut one third the way through to allow water to drain out packed into neat little rows.  Each bottle houses a single fish and the bottles are so tightly nested that he can walk across the top of them.  Every so often there is a bottle that is marked with tape or turned upside-down, this denotes that the fish between are all from the same spawn and it allows you to see the variations produced.

The other side is occupied by row after row of round concrete basins.  Along the top is a drip irrigation system that is constantly running and in the middle projecting from the bottom up to the top almost even with the rim is a drain pipe.  This is designed to keep a constant but gentle flow of water as there are dozens if not hundreds of fry in each.  Some are tiny and others are almost adults but he has dozens of nurseries.

At the front is a long room where the betta get paired with their mates.  There must have been close to a hundred pairs and in each the males are courting the females by displaying their massive tails and swimming in circles around her.  Even though there are neighboring males clearly visible they only have eyes for their intended mates.  Some were colors I have seen before, others are totally new and Mr. Preecha was quite excited for the possibilities that might arise from the pairings.  He also showed me some that he considered a work in progress because he is breeding for specific physical traits that are only slowly emerging.

It was really interesting.  On one that the sheer scale was impressive and it is obviously labor intensive but most of the work that goes into it seems relatively straightforward.  Betta, for all their beauty, are relatively simple fish and in the native environment their care is easy.  Needless to say I am intrigued by the possibilities...

As it was getting into the afternoon we decided to adjourn for some lunch.  Mr. Preecha took us to a great place on the river.  He said it was his favorite place and I can see why, the view was amazing and the food was spectacular.  Two different kinds of fish served as a stir fry and as a soup; both were spicy and flavorful.  An interesting dish of nuts, lime, coconut, herbs, and chilies was delicious but unfortunately was served towards the end of our meal so we didn't really have a lot of room left to enjoy it.

With an errand to run Mr. Preecha dropped us off close to the market where we hailed a cab back to our hotel.  Much of what remained of the afternoon was spent planning and gathering of belongings together so that our early morning departure doesn't require much in the way of additional work.  When we got hungry we popped over to Khao San Road for a quick bite to eat and a little last minute shopping.

Now we're getting cleaned up and packing away the things we won't need again until we get home.  I know the heat was a bit of a shock when we arrived and I suspect the cold will be similarly traumatic especially because I probably don't have the most appropriate clothes for near-freezing weather.  Shorts and flip-flops are what most people wear, right?

Fuji X-T1, Fujinon 35/f1.4R
35mm, f2, 1125 sec @ 200 ISO

2014, Day 326 - Ice boys

After a couple long days in Bangkok following a long sleepless flight we decided that today should be an easy day.  With that in mind we were still up early and ate a quick breakfast before hailing a tuk-tuk.  We were on a mission that led us to Wat Pho first thing in the morning.

Associated with the venerable temple is a massage school and we felt that we deserved a bit of pampering.  Not that it is a spa experience, far from in fact when you consider a room full of beds side by side where dozens of people are getting massages but the training that the masseurs have received is impeccable.  So we were literally the first through the door and soon we were being worked like dough.  Thai massage is vigorous and they use every part of their body to work out the knots while apply most of their weight to the targeted areas.  It was a little intense but afterwards I felt like I was walking on air.  And for the bargain price of less than twenty dollars for an hour.

Loosened up, we wandered the temple complex with take up much of a block.  Walk around the massive and stunningly beautiful reclining Buddha.  Watch the girls practice their traditional Thai dancing.  Try to dodge the other children who were in some kind of weekend class.  Past the forest of tiled stupas and all of a sudden we were back on the street.

When I was in Bangkok four years ago we missed the Jim Thompson house despite it being a short walk from our hotel.  When Francene suggested we go I agreed and after two failed negotiations with tuk-tuks we hopped a cab instead who agreed to run the meter.  As it turned out the tuk-tuk drivers wanted three times as much as the metered taxi, something I had suspected but not to that degree.

The Jim Thompson house is actually six old Thai houses that he transported to the current site and married together to create a larger western style home with Thai style.  While the home was pretty the grounds were amazing and his art collection extremely impressive.  All of the art is of Asian origin and of that the majority is from southeast Asia.  Aside from the art Jim Thompson is a notable figure in Thailand for his work on reviving the Thai way of weaving silk which, until his intervention, had slowly been dying out.  His story ends in a mystery as he disappeared in the late 60s in Malaysia when he took a solitary walk and never returned.  Authorities searched for him for years before giving up and his fate remains unknown.

At this point it was getting hot so we decided to head back toward our hotel and find lunch.  We decided to try another vegetarian restaurant we saw yesterday.  It turned out to be a good choice because we has a wonderful meal and the staff was, probably unintentionally, quite funny.  The kitchen is adjacent to the street and the chef kept calling out greetings to everyone who passed.  She was clearly visible in the dining room and we really enjoyed her animated antics.

After eating we went in search of a duffel bag.  On the way we came upon an old man selling amulets and charms.  Francene couldn't resist and eventually she purchased a few despite the complete lack of a common language.  Eventually we did find a duffle bag although it is bigger than we wanted it appears to be well made and the price was impossible to refuse.

Much of the rest of the afternoon we spent relaxing and we left the hotel only long enough to get dinner which was decent but ultimately unremarkable.  The rest of the evening has been spent reviewing our pictures and contemplating how we will pack for our departure on Tuesday.

Pictured is a group of young men that I have come to think of as "the ice boys."  From this storefront the grind ice which they bag and sent all over Bangkok by motorbike.  There is always at least four of them there at all hours of the day though usually only two or three are working while the rest nap in the hammock or sit upstairs smoking.  I suspect they own the business as I have yet to see anyone of apparent authority in their shop and we walk by a few times a day every day.

Fuji X-T1, Fujinon 56/f1.2R
56mm, f1.2, 1/125 sec @ 1000 ISO

2014, Day 297 - Diverge

Look up, sometimes you see something you've need thousands of times before in a new light.  I took think picture while wandering through NW Portland and loved the strong lines and geometric regularity.

Fuji X-Pro1, Fujinon 14/f2.8R
14mm, f4, 1/500 sec @ 200 ISO

2014, Day 262 - Eye of an angry god

I am rather excited to share this image.  That's my friend Chris spinning a little steel wool while standing the the portcullis to the reactor chamber at Satsop Nuclear Power Plant.  Typically I think burning steel wool is a little boring and rather dangerous but in this place it is totally safe, as safe as spinning molten steel can be, and there are some wonderful additional textures.  When I first looked at this picture all I could see is an enormous angry red eye.

Fuji X-T1, Fujinon 10-24/f4R OIS
21.9mm, f11, 2.3 sec @ 200 ISO

2014, Day 206 - Zip

It's amazing how much freight we move.  Sometimes I wonder if we wouldn't be better off making more things locally instead of shipping the same stuff all over the world.  With globalization we lose our uniqueness, everything becomes a blur of sameness.  Ingenuity is sacrificed to efficiency and that is disappointing so to you I say, embrace your uniqueness, take a chance on something different and enjoy the experience.

Canon 5D Mark III, Canon 24-105/f4L IS
73mm, f8, 8 sec @ 200 ISO

2013, Day 327 - Dash of color

Suchitoto may be known for its cobblestone roads but what I really enjoyed was the colors and textures displayed on the buildings.  On our first evening in town Francene and I wandered to find a good view of the lake which turned out to be lacking when compared to the view from our balcony.  Along the way I took pictures of windows and doors.  There is such a playful use of color throughout the city and the texture of the walls and the contrast of the prevalent ironwork was really nice.  As we walked we passed children playing, women chatting, old men smoking, and people carrying on with a leisurely evening.  Everyone called out greeting to each other and often to us as well.  I can see why it is a place popular with locals and visitors, the atmosphere evokes a kind of familiar nostalgia for all who spend even a little time in this quaint city.

Canon 1D X, Canon 24-70/f2.8L Mark II
24mm, f5.6, 1/250 sec @ 640 ISO

2013, Day 326 - Support

Guanajuato is a gem of a city.  While I read about it and even saw pictures I was not at all prepared for the vibrance and character that I found.  Colorful homes, 19th century buildings, winding streets, tunnels for cars and pedestrians alike; it is beautiful and I wish that we had more time there because I kept thinking that someone needs to make a time lapse project of this city.  It is like an termite nest; massively complicated and teaming with all kinds of interesting activity.

This photo features a home that spans the opening of one of the tunnels.  I can't imagine living there is especially peaceful with the traffic noise and automotive fumes but it would be a great vantage to watch the bustling activity of the city.  It is so rich with colors and textures, Guanajuato is a visual feast and a destination I would recommend without hesitation.

Canon 1D X, Canon 24-70/f2.8L Mark II
24mm, f4, HDR of 1/1600, 1/800, 1/400, 1/200, and 1/100 sec @ 100 ISO

2013, Day 313 - Moving

We got up after a rather restless night in Mexico City and decided a bit of a wander was in order.  Since we arrived late and were well fed last night we didn't really venture out so this morning our plan was to make up for it as much as one can with such limited time so we got dressed and ventured out.

The city was still waking up and the churches were just throwing open their doors as we meandered down the street.  Araceli found a map and was in the lead with the eventual goal of Sanborns at la Casa de los Azulejos.  Originally built in the 18th century by the Count del Valle de Orizaba as his personal residence the name comes from delicate and expensive blue and white tiles that adorn the exterior.  It was purchased in the 20th century by the Sanborn brothers who made it their flagship soda fountain and drug store.  Today there are a number of cafes on different levels in the old palace and the Sanborns chain is now owned by billionaire businessman Carlos Slim.

After we at in such luxurious surroundings we stopped by a few churches and continued to wander the increasingly bustling streets of Mexico City.  Sadly this was our last morning with Araceli as our traveling buddy so we eventually wandered back to the hotel so she could finish packing and take a taxi to the airport.

Francene and I stayed until right before our one o'clock checkout time and then we too went to the airport.  Our flight wasn't until six o'clock but when we booked it we thought we might be coming form Puerto Vallarta and it would connect in Mexico City on the way to Cancun.  Well, we skipped the first leg and even though the airline assured us that they would honor the second leg of our flight without completing the first we found this claim somewhat dubious.

As it turns out they were being completely honest with us and it was no trouble at all.  Oh well, better to be safe even if it means a rather long wait at the airport.  Fortunately we found a place to have lunch, connected to the internet, and did a little catching up with the rest of the world.  Eventually our flight was assigned a departure gate and we hopped on our plane with no trouble at all.

It was a short flight to Cancun and after picking up our bags we met Evi at the airport and the three of us headed to our new hotel in Playa del Carmen.  It is one of the sprawling fancy resorts that it both nice and awful at the same time.  It will serve as base camp for the next few days so we can finally settle in a bit.

Canon 5D Mark III, Canon 24-70/f2.8L Mark II
70mm, f4, 1/250 sec @ 100 ISO

2013, Day 235 - Zipping

As the Hood to Coast runners were making their way through Portland I was taking pictures of another dramatic evening of clouds.  You can see their ghosts on the Hawthorne bridge and the trails of tail lights from passing cars.  I love long exposures, the capture the world in a different way and chaos evaporates.

Fuji X-E1, Fuji 18-55/f2.8-4
18mm, f11, 8 sec @ 200 ISO

2013, Day 220 - Painted

My baby sister was in town tonight and on our way home for an awesome dinner we were treated to an epic sunset.  I had to pull over and take a few photos.  The neon sign for the Avalon just cinches it for me!

Olympus OM-D, Panasonic 12-35/f2.8 OIS
18mm, f4, 1/80 sec @ 1600 ISO

2013, Day 189 - Rotate

This morning I got my oil changed and tires rotated.  A couple years ago a neighbor of mine recommended a this shop to me, he said that the owners are honest and they do good work.  Not only that but they are quite popular and even though they can always squeeze you in the service isn't lightning fast.  But they're meticulous and that extra time allows me an opportunity to take a few pictures of their shop.  The old concrete block walls have such great texture I had to work it in.

Fuji X-E1, Fuji 35/f1.4
35mm, f1.4, 1/200 sec @ 400 ISO

2013, Day 184 - Festivities

Although I am not a fan of fireworks because of how they affect the dogs I appreciate the way Portland puts on a show.  People line the waterfront and they launch the pyrotechnics from a barge in the middle of the river.  Clear nights are all well and good but a cloudy even is so much more dramatic and is more impressive that some pretty lights in the sky that leave clouds of noxious smoke behind.

Canon 1D X, Canon 16-35/f2.8L Mark II
21mm, f4, HDR of 1/100, 1/50, 1/25, 1/13, and 1/6 sec @ 400 ISO

2013, Day 148 - Reflected glory

The Rose Festival continues and the calendar of events can be found on their website.  It is probably the biggest event of the year in Portland although probably not the best.  Still, it is good enough to rank in the top ten of summer festivals in the nation.  For my part, I would rather attend the Bite of Portland or any of the other great food-based celebrations.  Still, they don't have fireworks!

Canon 1D X, Canon 16-35/f2.8L Mark II
16mm, f4, 2 sec @ 320 ISO

2013, Day 147 - Motoring

Why is it that we see so few motorbikes in this country?  Every day you see people driving around by themselves in huge vehicles that are eagerly guzzling down fuel but when you visit SE Asia most people travel on motorbikes and borrow or hire cars when necessary.  Granted they don't make runs to Costco to fill their fallout shelter but it just seems so efficient and that efficiency is elegant.  Maybe I should get a motorcycle license, for as much good as it will do me in the waterlogged state that is Oregon...

Canon 1D X, Canon 70-200/f2.8L IS Mark II
200mm, f4, 1/1000 sec @ 100 ISO

2013, Day 27 - Ghosts of Satsop

The problem with long exposures is that while you stand there nonchalantly waiting for the exposure to be completed people may accidentally walk into the frame.  It isn't always a bad thing and in this case I like the ghost of our guide.  He is well into the foreground and I like that he happens to be looking up towards the cavernous domed ceiling above, his presence was a welcome surprise.

Canon 1D X, Canon 16-35/f2.8L Mark II
16mm, f5.6, 10 sec @ 320 ISO

2013, Day 9 - Concrete crew

More cooling tower love tonight.  I took this photo of the finished tower right as we were getting ready to leave.  Everyone else is shuffling to the little door you can see in the distance I lingered for that one last photo.  I couldn't help it, the scale and stark beauty of Satsop is intoxicating.  If you squint the concrete almost looks like a crew neck sweater...

Canon 1D X, Canon 16-35/f2.8L Mark II
16mm, f11, merged layers of 1/20, 1/10, and 1/5 sec @ 320 ISO

2013, Day 8 - Mechanical moon

This is what it looks like to be swallowed by a whale.  Satsop Nuclear Power Plant is a behemoth who belches fire born of the atomic age, or it would have were it ever completed.  We return tonight for a change of pace and this is an image I wasn't especially happy with at the time, I retook it many times hoping for the rain the let up even a little bit but it didn't.  The droplets on the filter first looked distracting and it may to some but I have grown to like the effect, it adds little points of interest.

Canon 1D X, Canon 16-35/f2.8L Mark II
16mm, f11, merged layers of 1/160 and 1/80 sec @ 320 ISO

2013, Day 5 - Lonely cloud

On our second evening in Cambodia we met up with Francene and Tim at their apartment in Phnom Penh's swanky BKK district.  The rooftop afforded us an amazing view of another stunning Cambodian sunset.  I loved this single cloud in the foreground that drifted through lazily.  To me it looked a bit like George Jetson's car with an exhaust trail left in its wake.

Canon 1D X, Canon 24-70/f2.8L Mark II
70mm, f5.6, 1/500 sec @ 320 ISO

2012, Day 357 - Severed

Tonight we go back in time to revisit the nuclear power plant at Satsop.  It was so much fun exploring and this room was fascinating.  To me it looked like someone excised a vital organ severing all the arteries and leaving in its place an empty shell and the suggestion of what once was.  It is a little sad but also endlessly fascinating; at the time I think we were all so overwhelmed by the sheer size of the plant that many of the questions the spring to mind now were just drowned out was the sense of awe.

Oh well, maybe we can arrange a return visit in the spring...

Canon 1D X, Canon 16-35/f2.8L Mark II
16mm, f5.6, 1/40 sec @ 320 ISO